A fake volcano, an ice-cream, a dog dressed as a shark: how I holidayed in the Aeolian Islands – without leaving Philadelphia | Philadelphia holidays

If someone gave me a large sum of money with the stipulation that I had to use it on a summer holiday, I would probably head to the Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago off the coast of Sicily boasting dramatic cliffs, mud baths and picturesque beaches. I went there with an ex about 15 years ago and we argued the whole time; I’ve always wanted to go back and not have the beautiful views ruined by romantic discord.

Of course, Italian summer holidays have been ruined by something rather more serious this year: wildfires and scorching heat have closed airports, forced evacuations, and left a trail of death and destruction. It’s not the best time to be jumping on a carbon-emitting plane and heading off for a carefree vacation in the Med.

So … could I recreate the Aeolian Islands in my home town of Philadelphia? Philly is great, but it is not exactly famous for its glitz, glamour and idyllic beaches. It is known for cheese steaks, the Liberty Bell and the wild celebrations of its sports fans. Still, there is nothing a little creativity and a change of mindset can’t fix.

Dressing for the occasion

My usual wardrobe is best described as dishevelled freelancer chic. In preparation for my holiday, I shed my athleisure and dug out a jumpsuit, which I paired with a straw hat belonging to my wife. I also applied makeup for the first time in months.

It is amazing the difference a change of clothes and a little bit of mascara can make. The straw hat, in particular, was transformative: I really felt as if I were going on my hols.

“Arrivederci!” I trilled to my dog as I downed a black coffee and swanned off.

A cliff walk with breathtaking sea views

Were I actually on the island of Salina, I might start the day with a trek through olive trees, taking in views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the neighbouring islands. I substituted that for the Fairmount Water Works, a municipal water department turned events space on the east bank of the Schuylkill River. “In Philadelphia, there is a place that is wondrous to behold, and that is the Philadelphia waterworks,” Charles Dickens said after visiting it in 1842.