Think of Kemptown as Brighton’s mischievous cousin. It’s a little edgier, much more queer and – dare I say it – way more fun. Located east of Brighton Palace Pier, the neighbourhood traces the seafront from St James Street – the pulsating heart of Kemptown’s vibrant nightlife – to the stunning Regency buildings of the Kemp Town Estate.
That affluent pocket is where Cate Blanchett and Nick Cave were former residents, while Lewis Carroll drew inspiration for Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland from its private gardens – you can get a sneaky peak of them from a gated tunnel on the seafront esplanade.
But it’s Kemptown’s contemporary side that dominates the agendas of travellers to this corner of England – most famously, its immense Pride celebrations in August. But the density of Airbnbs, a rolling calendar of events on the seafront – from the Mod Weekender to the Brighton Speed Trials – and upscale additions, such as Sea Lanes and Soho House’s Brighton outpost, confirms it’s inclusive to every type of pleasure seeker. Here’s why you should turn left at the seafront.
Do
Catch a drag act
With Brighton being the UK’s LGBT+ capital, there’s an impressive choice of gay bars, pubs and clubs in Kemptown, and plenty offer entertainment all week long. Try Legends for drag on the seafront, or pile into The Queen’s Arms for its popular cabaret. Deeper into Kemptown, Proud serves drag bottomless brunches every weekend.
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Sea Lanes
Take a dip in the 50m-long, six-lane pool
(Sea Lanes)
The newest star attraction of Kemptown is Sea Lanes, a regenerated beachfront area centring around the National Open Water Swimming Centre. After taking a dip in the 50m-long, six-lane pool (open-air but heated), kick back with a decadent brunch sandwich from specialists Fika, or a craft beer at the ever-buzzy Bison Beach Bar (the sunset views here are sublime). Got longer to recharge? Head to the hidden festival-like area of Beach Box Spa, comprised of old horseboxes repurposed for a rejuvenating sauna-and-dip experience.
Secret Garden
Hidden away and surrounded by mature foliage, the Secret Garden is the former pleasure garden of 32 Sussex Square – the tunnel that connects the two still exists, albeit blocked off halfway through. It’s open every Sunday over summer, and the biggest draw is its sculpture…
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