“LA is the Amsterdam of America,” said no one, ever. In fact, Los Angeles was named ‘Worst Bike City’ in the United States by Bicycling magazine in 2018, the reasons being a lack of protective road infrastructure, and a car bias that stymies any such development. Over five years on, little has changed. Ultimately, LA worships the fast and furious – and luxurious.
I acknowledge this truth while also banging the drum for cycling in LA. Perfect weather, beaches, mountains and cool neighbourhoods on an immersive, traffic-beating vehicle make for an exquisite combination.
I start north through Santa Monica on the Marvin Braude Bike Trail, this famous 22-mile bike path cutting across the beach then joining the traffic on Ocean Avenue. The coast is no longer in view, but the water makes the bottom of the sky glow. Some local cyclists at a red light compliment my wheels – a rental from Helen’s Cycles in Mid-City Santa Monica, which I rate for quality road and mountain bikes. It seems we’re all restless for a ride after the week’s rain.
Joining a group cycling tour is a great way to experience LA by bike
(Kinza Sheen)
I’m heading toward Topanga State Park in the Santa Monica Mountains, going through the Will Rogers State Historic Park along the way. The ride up is beautiful. It goes through a hilly, forested neighbourhood called Rustic Canyon, passing over a small stream and wooden bridge at one point. The roads are extremely quiet, and the air feels warm and botanical. True of most affluent properties in LA, each house is an elegant weirdo, and worth eyeing for the long moments it takes to cycle by.
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Needless to say, things get more spectacular the higher (and harder) the climb. Will Rogers is beginner-intermediate in terms of elevation, overlooking foamy mountains from its Inspiration Loop Trail. Views from Topanga are blue, mainly ocean, with LA hanging out to the side. It’s pale, strangely peaceful from a distance, and ready to take on by bike with a healthy dose of discernment and strategy. With such an approach, LA opens itself up for cyclists, and I far prefer it to shuttling around by car. What follows is a rundown on doing the thing properly.
Where to cycle
When holidaying on bike in LA, delve deep into a handful of neighbourhoods. It’s how most locals live, because crossing town on any…
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