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A local’s guide to Hamburg: concerts, cocktails and dockyard cuisine | Hamburg holidays

Typical Hamburg boat

Food

If you’re into trying traditional food and are feeling very brave, you’ll want to try labskaus. Originally created to set sailors up with all the nutrition they needed, the dish does not look particularly appealing. Once you’ve got over its appearance (or simply closed your eyes), this mixture of corned beef, onions, potatoes, beetroot and eggs is actually very enjoyable. My go-to place for labskaus served with fried eggs and rollmop herrings is Oberhafen-Kantine in the new HafenCity district.

Built in 1925 to cater for harbour and shipyard workers – Hamburg has one of the largest ports in the world – the canteen has been battered by storms and floods over the years. In 2000, not long after being closed down, the building was declared a historical monument. It has since been refurbished and reopened – but retains its wonky charm.

Inspiration

It goes without saying that the Elbphilharmonie, which celebrated its fifth anniversary this year, is one of the greatest modern success stories of our city. Despite all the controversies surrounding the building’s heavily delayed completion and spiralling costs (it went well over budget), we couldn’t be more proud of it, and whenever I play there I relish performing in what is now one of the finest concert halls in the world.

If you can’t get tickets for a performance – they sell out quickly – visit the public viewing platform, or “Plaza”, which offers spectacular views of the harbour and city.

Neighbourhood

The Schanze is one of the liveliest areas in Hamburg: cool, central, colourful and crazy. Start your afternoon in one of its nice cafes, take in the vibe of the area and explore its small fashion boutiques – try Edited for women’s fashion, Kauf dich

Glücklich for a mix of fashion and Scandinavian design, and Scarpovino for a quirky combo of shoes and wine. There’s also an amazing amount of street art to take in.

In the evenings, soak up the atmosphere at cosy bars such as 10 and Counting and Mutter, and hip restaurants like Bullerei, founded by local celebrity chef Tim Mälzer inside a former abattoir.

Green space

A beach on the Elbe River.
A beach on the Elbe River. Photograph: calado/Alamy

Hamburgers – I’ll admit I had issues with that term for the city’s inhabitants when I lived in London – love the water. On Sundays or bank holidays we’ll enjoy a stroll along the River Elbe. The…

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