How Sao Paulo, Brazil’s ‘ugly sister’ might actually be its Cinderella city

The taxi is hurtling into town – but I’m not complaining. I’ve only got two nights and a day in São Paulo, so I need to squeeze the juice out of it. The road is absolutely rammed even though it’s late, dark, and drivetime is presumably over. Except it never is in South America’s megalopolis, famous for 100-mile traffic jams and the world’s busiest chopper lanes; helicopters are used by the rich when time is money. Suddenly, in the white beam of my cab, dozens of colourful lycra-clad bodies materialise. It’s a peloton, whizzing along what would be a bike-banning motorway anywhere else. They’re speeding home, helmets dipped, feet blurred in motion. I laugh. I can’t help but admire the night-riders.

“They go in big groups to avoid having their bicycles stolen,” says my guide, Edison, as if that’s obvious.

When I get to the hotel – the sumptuous Rosewood in Bela Vista – I feel like I’m walking late into a Gatsby-themed party. The bars and restaurants are throbbing. Women walk past reception dressed in feathers and spangly, otiose tops. I catch a snatch of torch song and follow the music to a dimly lit speakeasy packed with cocktail-tipping clients. The jazz is cool, smooth, mercifully not too bossa-inflected. But I’m bushed; I’ll save some energy for tomorrow.

Daytime in São Paulo needs planning – and energy. I feast on granola and açai as fuel. The city covers almost 600 square miles; the metro area is five times that. If you (are a lunatic and) drive end-to-end it can take five hours. I have given Edison a challenge, though: I want to do some walking. He nods politely. He’s not convinced.

Still, off we set, down the Avenida Paulista. Most workers are already in their offices, but the wide pavement is busy and there’s a constant stream of black and silver cars. Paulistanos, the people of São Paulo city, pride themselves on their serious work ethic. Rio and Salvador, they say, are too busy partying and drinking Brahma beer and coconut milk.

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