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Adventure territory: 10 days on the road to Australia’s heart

Adventure territory: 10 days on the road to Australia’s heart


A window seat: I always ask for one on a flight to Darwin. The approach makes the heart beat faster, as you cross the mosaic of land and water that characterises the Top End of the Northern Territory. Once off the plane – and through the the speedy arrivals formalities – the warm embrace of the tropics welcomes you. Time for adventure: on my latest trip, a 10-day celebration of culture, cuisine and landscape.

Closer to Bali than to Bondi Beach, Darwin serves as capital for Australia’s diverse and intriguing Northern Territory. This modest metropolis, full of colour and life, is just the place to begin a journey through the Northern Territory: from the Top to the Rock.

The city is named after the naturalist and father of the theory of evolution, Charles Darwin, but it was was originally known as Palmerston. The original town hall is one of very few buildings constructed before 1974 of which anything survives. Across the road, all that remains of the original Anglican cathedral is the entrance, silent testament to the destructive power of nature. The reason: overnight on Christmas Eve, 1974 Cyclone Tracy brought destruction to Darwin.

Due to the extreme weather event half-a-century ago, Darwin looks a thoroughly modern capital – with a vibrant 21st century art scene. In the past few years, local and international artists have brightened many city-centre walls. You can even bring the art to life using the Darwin street art festival app, which gives you some extraordinary augmented reality.

Creativity continues in a satisfying fashion when you join an official Gourmet Tour, sampling the best of Darwin’s bars and restaurants. My gastronomic journey began on the waterfront at Snapper Rocks with some exquisite seafood. That was quickly followed by Sri Lankan street food at Ella by Minoli – where delicious dishes are created by celebrity chef Minoli de Silva, star of Australia MasterChef.

Between April and October, sunset is a delight at Mindil Beach – where Darwin’s multicultural magic is most in evidence. Every Thursday and Sunday more than 200 stalls dispense unique crafts and cuisine. Thai, Korean, Japanese, Spanish and Italian are just some of the cuisines on offer. But a favourite here in Darwin is laksa, the great South East Asian soup – best consumed with fresh papaya juice on the beach as the sun sinks into the majestic harbour.

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